March 22, 2020

Pfeifferhorn North Ridge

One of the first Wasatch peaks to captivate me while I was quite young, rises like a tooth above Maybird Lakes. This peak sees far too much traffic these days in the summer time and can lose its luster due to the hammering it takes by people. However, this treasure in the winter still embraces my mind with possibilities and freedom. I have been on it over 30 times I suspect in my life. Each time the view and energy it supplies is special.  In the winter however, the Pfeifferhorn takes on its full potential. Especially the north aspects of this mountain make it feel like a true treasure. I hate to even write this for fear it pushes people more towards it's realm of power. However, the mountains are not mine, but treasures to be cherished and cared for by us all. 

Yesterday at 7:20 AM, Jason Dorais and I left White Pine T.H. and skinned up above Maybird Lakes and cast our eyes on our objective as the sun was casting a dimension of unique mountain light. The North Ridge is a true alpine experience for the experienced, prepared traveler. Not to be taken lightly, this ridge has it all. Exposure, steep granite, high consequence travel, including avalanche risk. It is highly aesthetic and a magnet for the alpinist. This is where we were headed.

The last snow fall was late Thursday night. It came in perfectly, stable and clinging to the steepest of slopes. We headed up the couloir, able to skin nearly the entire way. Most parties would boot, but we were able to set a beautiful skinner about 100 feet below the top. We booted from here. The couloir is about 55 degrees in pitch.  Reaching the ridge, we found loose, freshly fallen snow on the steep granite. Donning the crampons and ice tools we carefully worked our way sans rope up the first buttress. I watched Jason move smoothly, like an artist up the highly insecure rock. We moved well, reaching the platform and then up the west facing ramp that held snow, making the rock movement more precarious. From the top of the couloir to this point is all high consequence travel in lose snow conditions.

The ridge then takes on a steep airy pitch with a few cruxy moves. We went without a rope and felt secure, albeit a fall would be catastrophic. It's advisable to use a rope and set gear.  Ice tool in hand, crampons front pointing along the way made for fun exposed travel. We then booted up the east hanging snowfield to the top. It was spectacular route! It had been many years since I last did this route.

We chose to descend the North West Couloir, which we both have done many times. It skied probably among the best I have ever had it. The snow was completly latent in activity about a foot and half of fresh snow! The rappel this go round was about 45 feet. Last month it was closer to 60 feet.  We then enjoyed incredible skiing all the way to the main trail. Another wonderful journey with JD! 

The NR
Topping out of the Couloir. Here we go Ridge.
Jason starting up the ridge, Artisan
At the Platform, heading to the West Ramp (ahead of Jason)

Jason top of Ramp- I love this photo!

Me along the Ramp
Nearing the Crux. Incredible position
The crux
Jason moving to the last section of rock
Jason near the top
Jason ripping the NW Couloir uppper section

Rap
Me enjoying incredible snow below the Rap
Jason rushing into Hogum Fork

March 14, 2020

Grand Teton Winter Ascent and Ski Descent March 6, 2020

Thirty years ago I did my first ascent in the Teton Range. Since that June 1990, I have gone back nearly every year sometimes multiple times to explore the range that drew me into her grasp with an undeniable magnetic force. I have had so many memories and experiences there with loved ones. In my mind I can rehearse every single trip to the Tetons. I can tell you about each route, the crux, the moments of challenge and character carving sections. 

On March 6, 2020, Will Hanson and I left Motel 6 at 230 AM in icy temps, en route under a nearly full moon to the Taggart Lake trailhead. We left the warmth of the Prius at 3 am and skinned north of the lake and then over Bradley to the base of the Range. The giants slept with the silver cloaks shimmering under the moonlight. Nothing was stirring, no not even a mouse as we glided along the humbling landscape with headlamps glowing our path. We climbed up into the Meadows as the winds began to awaken in the darkness. I could see against the moon, the north side of Middle Teton with what I hoped were just morning clouds and not snow being blown from the summit. 

We then moved up towards the Petzoldt caves and then along the icy slopes towards the inlet of the Tepee Glacier. Still quite dark and moving along well, the winds were pounding the east face of the Grand and seemed to be blowing in all directions hammering as we moved upwards. I sat for a moment, sheltered by a rock from the wind to don my warmer windbreaker as the light of dawn finally started to reveal itself. As I sat there, I gazed up to the East face directly above Tepee Pillar. I was humbled. The winds were raking the face and of course I was worried about wind slabs. The power of the face was indescribable. It reminded me of the first time I climbed Mount Owen in 1996. There I was, sitting below the Koven Couloir at 230 AM. I was facing the North Face of the Grand. I could see this massive black hole in the middle of a star-filled morning. I was blown away by the sight. Humbled beyond description to be in the setting.

We moved up the Tepee Glacier under a fire-filled morning light of dawn and winds. We were able to skin most of it, however near the top I had to boot upwards. Reaching the col, the morning had become full and the winds continued.  We then moved west and into the base of the Stettner Couloir where we donned the ice tools and crampons. We moved up the ice-filled Stetner, then into the steeper Chevy Couloir, where we found even more excellent, hard ice to climb. We chose to keep the ropes in the pack as we felt confident through the ice and over the large ice bulge. It was cold. We then booted to the top of the Ford Couloir. The winds were relentless. Gusts would come that knocked us over several times. We pushed upwards.

I could feel the presence in my mind of Bill Briggs (first person to ski the Grand in June 1971) as we emerged on to the South East snowfield of the Grand! At this point, you are in a very precarious spot. Like a fly on a hanging snowfield that balances between the sky and rock. If it slides, it's over. We moved as quickly as we could up this face towards the summit. Dead of winter. Alone. It was spectacular. We reached the summit at 9:50 AM. We rejoiced with tears filling the eyes. As I gazed, like I have many times in the he past from this special spot, I offered my prayer of thanksgiving. It's serious business to get here and to get out. Not to be taken lightly.....

The time had come. Time to ski down! We stashed the crampons and clicked into the skis on the summit. We made our first incredible turns off the summit and skied tacking snow all the way down the face and then into the Ford Couloir. Without event. It was spectacular to say the least. I would not want to ski those sections in icy conditions. We then rappelled six times down the three couloirs. The southerly winds were fierce the entire way down. 

We then skied down the Tepee Glacier, then over below Middle Teton and glided into the Meadows. We reached Bradley Lake. Took off the coats and then skinned back to the car. We arrived at 1:20 PM. In one word. I am Grateful.  Grateful for these mountains. Grateful for the health and abilities to do it. Grateful for wonderful partners. Grateful for good luck. Grateful for a family that understands my need to be here. 

Will and Nez Perce
Will and Tepee Glacier
Will in the Stettner with Middle Staring us down
Climbing perfect Ice in the Chevy
Entry to the Ford Couloir
Base of Ford
Putting in the booter


Will!

The steepness of the Face surrounding by Winter's Magic
Will reaching the Summit in Winter
Psyched!

First Turn!
Looking at the jaws below
Dropping
Will on the snowfield
Pretty stunning and steep
Ford
Down Chevy



A few Winter 2020 Highlights

This winter I recovered from knee surgery. Something about getting older and having surgery that is not a good combination. Fortunately I have been recovering well and pulling it together. This winter has not had the volume of ski touring as in other years, however it has been about quality. I have had some great moments with friends this year. It's those moments that fill my mind when I close my eyes amidst the difficulties and challenges that life brings. They help get me through the sharpness of the edge.

This first image is special to me in many ways. It was an evening last month. I was alone, trying to work the pains of life off my back. Doing everything I could to shake them from my soul. As I was skinning swiftly up the mountain, suddenly the earth began to warm against the icy temperatures. Yes the 15 minutes of special light both in the dawn and dusk are my favorite times to be in the hills. However, this one was different. It was a piercing warmth. I stopped dead in my tracks to witness a miracle unfold before my eyes. It was dead silent, but I could feel the love of God pour over me. He knows my trials, my difficulties not unlike everyone else but individual to me. I could feel others on the other side of the veil. Those that have gone before me. It was an overwhelming love that bore testimony to me that there are those watching, cheering us along our paths of life. I shall never forget that moment as it was and is precious to me. 

God knows us
NW Couloir with Jared I and Lars in Feb 2020
Lars on the rappel
Jared. His camera and hot drinks
Hogum Fork
Lars and the Dresden Face
The incredible Jason Dorais on East Face of Twin
Jason
Tom Goth and the great Cottonwood Ridge
Jason on the East Face
Columbine at Dawn- Those special 15 minutes