Spring Mountain Travels

The past few days have been really great. Amidst the many responsibilities of life, I have been able to escape to the hills and enjoy the changing season. 

Alex, my oldest son and I were able to get out and climb a mellow but wonderful classic in the Little Cottonwood Gate district. Six pitches of excellent granite helped him to enjoy the activity even more. Climbing as a partnership among father and son is a pretty cool thing. Hearing him call my name in climbing fashion and to see him smile at the end of each pitch is super gratifying. I hope someday he will look back and remember days like these and that they will impact him for good.

Jason and I, after not having skied together in a while, we were excited to be able to get two great ascents done together. 

On Monday he and I, decided late in the day to meet at 5:30 PM and then go up the South Ridge of Superior. We found the route to be perfect, albeit the winds howled from the southwest. We climbed with complete freedom and enjoyed every move up the ridge. The mountain was glorious with the upper reaches still clinging to the story of the winter's past.  The ridge is super aesthetic and the crux moves were enjoyable. After some great rock, snow crossing and photo shoots, we hit the snowy cap 1hr. 15 mins later.

On Thursday night, I got a text "Chad I am going to talk you into West Slabs and Geurts again." Jason, knew I had PTSD from the last time I did this solo because of the close call with the rattle snake in Tolcat. Jason prevailed and on Friday morning we went for a repeat of the fun link-up I did a few weeks ago.

We climbed the West Slabs of Olympus and then dropped down into Tolcat canyon and then up the Geurt's ridge direct route, along the ridge proper to the the South Summit of Olympus. The Slabs were great as always and the Tolcat section stressed me out big-time (even though I sent Jason ahead of me to protect me from the snakes). Luckily no snakes! The direct and then Geurts were wonderful, with stable rock, an impending rain storm and downclimbing both rappel sections. We topped out in on the South Summit in an icy rain. We had an enjoyable pace, time for photos and visiting while climbing.

My opinion, Geurt's Direct is much steeper than the West Slabs, better rock and a great setting.

Another more important note- See this wonderful and touching video done on the Dorais Family. 

Alex rappelling off School Room

JD South Ridge Superior

South Ridge Cont.

Skiing Suicide Chute

Jason eyeing top part of the Slabs

Steep climbing Geurts Direct, exiting Tolcat-Goodbye snakes!

Stowing his camera before the "Catwalk"and an impending storm

One of the crux sections

One of the best upper sections

The man himself!

Mount Olympus Link-Up- West Slabs and Geurt's Ridge

I completed a link up I have been wanting to do for some time. Taking the afternoon off after all my meetings fell through, I decided today was my day.  I left my car at the West Slabs trail head. It would be a solo day so I had no one to talk to but good to relieve some stress. The snow in the couloir up to the Slabs was slushy, making travel a little slower than I would have liked. The crux move had a bit of water in the dihedral which added to the excitement. The rest of the slabs was was excellent with a hanging snowfield on the last shelf.  On top of the ridge I eyed Geurt's Ridge. That steep west facing ridgeline with two large towers. This ridge is the right ridge when looking at the west side of Olympus.  Mountain Project gives it a 5.5 rating with a couple rappels. 

I descended off the Slabs ridge, headed due southwest into Tolcat and had to negotiate cliffs, nasty bushwhacking and a super close call with a rattle snake that just about got me. It freaked me out. I'm not a rattlesnake fan. 

I worked my way to the base of the Geurt's Direct Route and then moved up excellent, stable, steep rock where I joined the ridge proper. It is a great climb, with some good exposure, mixture of 4th class and shots of 5th class climbing along the way. In keeping with the alpine spirit I donned my 7 mm cord and rappelled off the first 50' overhanging rappel.  The crux seemed to follow that rappel, going 5.5/5.6. The second rappel I down climbed. The entire ridge was really enjoyable and I think it had several great climbing sections making things interesting. All told, it was a great link up and a fun solo trip on excellent rock. I don't know that I would go back into Tolcat for fear of snakes. I then dropped down the standard trail and looped back via Bonneville to my car.

Times:

-Left car at 12:50 PM

-Top of West Slabs 1:45 PM

-Top of South Summit via Geurt's Ridge 3:25 PM

Geurt's ridge as seen from top of West Slabs- my line of ascent in red

Lower part of the ridge and Direct Line I took from Tolcat

The "cat walk" and looking at top of 1st major tower

Looking down Geurt's Ridge and my approximate line of descent off West Slabs

Tanners Gulch to Hell Gate-Making the most of a frail Winter

Yesterday morning Jared and I dropped a car a Hell Gate and then began a beautiful high alpine tour at Tanner's Gulch at 6 a.m. The moon waned with only its silhouette revealed by a sleeping sun. The stars were out and the temperatures had done as we hoped, freezing the snow into a solid snow cone.

Up Tanners we found granite boulders littering the first 500 vertical feet. In reaching the snow we welcomed icy texture upon which to travel. Unintentionally we hung far right up the couloir, driving us directly up to the east shoulder of Dromedary. We reached the top of the gulch around 7:30 a.m. Happily then we skied fresh powder (4") down to the east shoulder of Sundial. It was amazing to see Blanche already shedding her blanket of ice.

We moved from the West drainage of Mill B South over to the East drainage, finding a steep narrow notch that turned into a really neat couloir maybe 10 feet wide and 50 degree pitch. Jared entered using his whippet belay off a tree and then linked beautiful turns.  We then beheld the massive cirque, holding Monte Cristo and the beauty of the cottonwood ridge. Entering the cirque, there was a sense of reverence, silence and splendid loneliness.

Our aim was the "Heart of Darkness" couloir which would take us up to the short, exposed ridge-line that would get us onto the Cottonwood ridge. Like a junk show, I dropped my ski crampon right at the base of the Heart and got to run down on rock hard snow to retrieve it. Jared laughed, saying I should've had my BD Cyborg crampons on during my descent.  Up the couloir we went, and luckily there was enough ice to justify crampons, maybe not so burley like my Cyborgs, but nonetheless, patches of great moderate ice.  It was beautiful to top out in the sun.

We then worked up to the summit of Monte Cristo. It felt quite appropriate to stand atop "the mountain of Christ" as we gratefully celebrate his triumphant resurrection this Easter Season. The view back to Dromedary was as always brilliant.

We skied Monte Cristo's "edge of the world" on perfect corn.  Mount Superior was our last high point of the day. Descending south Superior we found a mixed bag of moguls, corn and ice. The day concluded at 10:15 a.m. with smiles. It was another amazing tour that will be forever filed in the cabinet of our minds.

Dromedary's East Face

Shoulder of Dromedary. Heaven.

Entering East Fork Mill B South

Jared, East Fork

A lonely skinner- Courtesy Jared Inouye

Jared eyeing the Heart of Darkness

Me up the Heart of Darkness- Courtesy Jared Inouye

Jared, Monte Cristo and the backbone of Cottonwood Ridge

Looking back

White Rim- Family, Friends and Food

Last weekend, my wife, son and I found ourselves hanging out with a great group of fellow mountain cyclist amidst the always hypnotizing red rock of Utah. Jared put the whole thing together and all of us benefited greatly. While my family and I only knew Jared and his oldest son, it made for a great outing with happy people.  The food was so good I gained weight.

We broke the 105 mile Canyonlands' White Rim Trail into two days.  It was special to watch at a distance while, Alex (my 15 year old), Ethan (Jared's 13 year old son) and Stevie (Lance's 15 year old) cast a dust trail together along the scenery loaded environment. We road the incredible loop clockwise, with day one ending at Murphy's.  A star studded sky, laughter and brats helped our amazing day reach a glorious crescendo.

On day 2 we concluded the remainder of the loop, riding from Murphy's through potato bottom, sand and up Mineral Bottom.  There were a lot of smiles at the top of Mineral, with a few gasping for new life as the 10 mile road back to the car made the sting bite a little harder.

My Shout outs:

-Stevie, the 15 year old young Jens, who absolutely attacked Mineral Bottom.

-Ethan, the only 13 year old I know to ride clean Murphys and actually laugh when he got on top!

-Alex, for your undaunted spirit entering the unknown and conquering challenges at a young age of 15.

-Marcie, for showing true grit in riding it home as a 41 year old mother of many. 

-Jared (not the Samurai), the oil-less virgin, who kept us all laughing 

-Bridgette, drove the support vehicle nearly the entire way. When asked if she could drive down Shafer, she responded "I don't know what I am getting into."

-Emily, probably the most flexible of us all and saw it through to the end. I think this was her first time mountain biking in years. But you wouldn't know it if you saw the way she scaled Mineral.

-Nanette, speed demon downhiller, mother of 2.

-Tyler, for a roadie, he took very well to the mountain clad in zinc and dust.

-Lance, the dad of mini Jens with a keen sense for locating Indian granaries

-Jeff, one of the craziest down hillers, on a bike unlikely equipped for the speed he laid down

-Landon, eight year old soccer monster, co-pilot to Bridgette

-Samurai Jared- For everything! Thank you for putting it all together.

Here's a video taken from a 15 year old's perspective of the descent of the Shafer trail (Alex)

Muscleman Arch

A few of folks on top of Murphy's

A few at the finish

In the middle of somewhere

Today, Jared and I rose to greet the morning sun in the warm Wasatch dawn, following a long-awaited storm that arrived and delivered earlier this week. South and west faces were zipper crusted, but north and eastern aspects graciously welcomed us. 

While not racing in the Powderkeg today, both of us felt we should be at least close in spirit to the guys, so we sought our own treasure. Both with about the same amount of time available, we discovered it in the waking light.

We skied several couloirs all of which were steep, elegant lines that lacked only in length. We started with the east aspects and then rotated along the compass to the north faces. Each held its own character, accompanied by incredible, soft skiing. 

Couloir #1- Steep and straight

The Samurai letting the morning begin

This became our highway of access up

Couloir #2- Ramp skiing

Drop off on skier's right- not the first in but soft skiing for sure

Couloir# 3  Steep and choked entry from the top

The top choke, pretty steep and tight-Courtesy SLC Samurai

Jared about halfway down-  the line went all the way

Couloir #4- "S" Couloir

Watching rocks at the top, the bottom drops out

Jared down climbing in style (near the bottom of the line) and seeing his pole a ways down. 

A look back-

Whipple Couloir and Waldo Couloir- Combat Skiing

Why didn't we ski north-facing terrain? Well, when one friend says he has always wanted to ski these elusive lines-you simply go make it happen, when conditions are safe. On Saturday, with a 6:10 AM start, Jared, Aaron and I climbed to the top of Neff's under clear skies, very minor breezes and amazing views of the Cottonwood range. Passing through soft north-facing powder, we kept saying to ourselves, "why are we going to ski death crust?" At the top of Neff's, we quickly found the enigmatic Whipple Couloir, guarded by steep east facing ramps and dry western walls. It looked remote and super aesthetic.

With cold conditions, Whipple was rock hard, and few frozen roller balls were thrown in between. It made for fun, icy skiing all the way down to the bushes. We quickly learned why very few have skied this line. There really is no good way out. We decided to link another line instead of exiting at the bottom or heading back up Whipple and down Neffs Canyon. 

Finding our way like lost goats we moved northeast, back up to the top of the ridge, allowing us a look at the west side of Raymond, limestone walls and the whole works. We skinned over to what we thought would be the Banana Couloir and it turned out to be Waldo instead.  We were thrilled to find the top soft and powdery, but then hopes were dashed as the snow turned to death crust and unsupportable.  Our exit was Mill D North, arriving to our dropped car at the S curve.

While combat skiing for sure, it was amazing to ski these two magical lines.  Even better was the company.

Brothers, Jared eyeing Whipple. Aaron, not sure what he is looking at

Looking down Whipple

The difference in Jared and my camera, amazing.- Courtesy SLC Samurai

Aaron near the top of Whipple

Me, midway- Courtesy SLC Samurai

Jared loving it

More Jared

I love this photo of Aaron atop Waldo Couloir w/ mtn. goat tracks ahead- Courtesy SLC Samurai

Broads Fork Twins- East

I forgot my camera. It was Saturday morning (January 17, 2015) 7 AM as we arrived in the upper meadows, surrounded by the waking giants of the Broads Fork cirque. Dromedary, Sunrise and Twin, each with gazes that pierced our souls,  hesitantly welcomed us as we were the first group in after the storm earlier this week. 

Headlamps began to die one by one, in reverence towards the crescent moon peering between Dromedary and Sunrise. Ours was a large group. Each of us entered the cathedral, laying down our own stresses of life before the great summits that now surrounded us. Some of us have spent decades in this part of the Wasatch and for at least one it was their first time. Regardless, each entrance is sacred.

Crescent Moon- Courtesy Jason Dorais

We worked, one by one to efficiently set the skinner up the southeastern shoulder of Broads Fork Twin. The snow was a mixed bag between thin wind slab, graupel and some great quality in between. Reaching the south ridge, segments looked more like an Autumn ridge than dead of winter. The wind had done its work. Lucky for us, it had ended and there was hardly a breeze. Fingers, faces and toes were still freezing as temps were low. Fortunately, the sun was quietly exploding over Dromedary as Teague, with ski off, swung is leg back and forth to warm toes. 

South Ridge and a beautiful skin track- Courtesy Jason Dorais

Ridge and the Slab- A most stunning picture, courtesy Jason Dorais

The standard route to the summit was enjoyable, with the slab section helping some fill their appetites for exposure. 

Part of the group planned a single descent down the eastern face of East Twin, while others were doing multiple lines. Jared, Justin and I, skiing off the top worked our way into the upper East Face, while dodging rocks which regularly presented themselves.  Me, the fool-hearted one, having already skied the East Face chute in years past and thinking it was too rock laden, decided to ski just north of the main East Chute. Thinking folks were following, I was alone, skiing what I guess I'll call the Terraced East Face route. It was neat line, with great, stable snow while skiing above the horizontal cliff bands. Glide avalanches in warmer conditions on this slope are a dramatic reality. My chosen route required one small down climb. I know folks have jumped this section in prior years. I should have communicated better. Jared, Justin, and then the others skied the main chute in very enjoyable conditions.  Reuniting at the foot, Justin, Jared and I headed for home. It was an amazing morning.

The rest of the crew then went on to link an impressive line down the Northwest aspect off of Twin East.

A note- Jason Dorais is not only one of the region's greatest alpinists, his photography work nearly keeps up with his fitness too.

The magic of the morning- Lars soaking it in. Courtesy Jason Dorais

 Upper East Face- Courtesy J Wilson

Jared always hard charging. Upper East Face- Courtesy J Wilson

Tom Goth- Courtesy J Wilson

Jared- Courtesy Jason Dorais