Thirty years ago I did my first ascent in the Teton Range. Since that June 1990, I have gone back nearly every year sometimes multiple times to explore the range that drew me into her grasp with an undeniable magnetic force. I have had so many memories and experiences there with loved ones. In my mind I can rehearse every single trip to the Tetons. I can tell you about each route, the crux, the moments of challenge and character carving sections.
On March 6, 2020, Will Hanson and I left Motel 6 at 230 AM in icy temps, en route under a nearly full moon to the Taggart Lake trailhead. We left the warmth of the Prius at 3 am and skinned north of the lake and then over Bradley to the base of the Range. The giants slept with the silver cloaks shimmering under the moonlight. Nothing was stirring, no not even a mouse as we glided along the humbling landscape with headlamps glowing our path. We climbed up into the Meadows as the winds began to awaken in the darkness. I could see against the moon, the north side of Middle Teton with what I hoped were just morning clouds and not snow being blown from the summit.
We then moved up towards the Petzoldt caves and then along the icy slopes towards the inlet of the Tepee Glacier. Still quite dark and moving along well, the winds were pounding the east face of the Grand and seemed to be blowing in all directions hammering as we moved upwards. I sat for a moment, sheltered by a rock from the wind to don my warmer windbreaker as the light of dawn finally started to reveal itself. As I sat there, I gazed up to the East face directly above Tepee Pillar. I was humbled. The winds were raking the face and of course I was worried about wind slabs. The power of the face was indescribable. It reminded me of the first time I climbed Mount Owen in 1996. There I was, sitting below the Koven Couloir at 230 AM. I was facing the North Face of the Grand. I could see this massive black hole in the middle of a star-filled morning. I was blown away by the sight. Humbled beyond description to be in the setting.
We moved up the Tepee Glacier under a fire-filled morning light of dawn and winds. We were able to skin most of it, however near the top I had to boot upwards. Reaching the col, the morning had become full and the winds continued. We then moved west and into the base of the Stettner Couloir where we donned the ice tools and crampons. We moved up the ice-filled Stetner, then into the steeper Chevy Couloir, where we found even more excellent, hard ice to climb. We chose to keep the ropes in the pack as we felt confident through the ice and over the large ice bulge. It was cold. We then booted to the top of the Ford Couloir. The winds were relentless. Gusts would come that knocked us over several times. We pushed upwards.
I could feel the presence in my mind of Bill Briggs (first person to ski the Grand in June 1971) as we emerged on to the South East snowfield of the Grand! At this point, you are in a very precarious spot. Like a fly on a hanging snowfield that balances between the sky and rock. If it slides, it's over. We moved as quickly as we could up this face towards the summit. Dead of winter. Alone. It was spectacular. We reached the summit at 9:50 AM. We rejoiced with tears filling the eyes. As I gazed, like I have many times in the he past from this special spot, I offered my prayer of thanksgiving. It's serious business to get here and to get out. Not to be taken lightly.....
The time had come. Time to ski down! We stashed the crampons and clicked into the skis on the summit. We made our first incredible turns off the summit and skied tacking snow all the way down the face and then into the Ford Couloir. Without event. It was spectacular to say the least. I would not want to ski those sections in icy conditions. We then rappelled six times down the three couloirs. The southerly winds were fierce the entire way down.
We then skied down the Tepee Glacier, then over below Middle Teton and glided into the Meadows. We reached Bradley Lake. Took off the coats and then skinned back to the car. We arrived at 1:20 PM. In one word. I am Grateful. Grateful for these mountains. Grateful for the health and abilities to do it. Grateful for wonderful partners. Grateful for good luck. Grateful for a family that understands my need to be here.
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| Will and Nez Perce |
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| Will and Tepee Glacier |
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| Will in the Stettner with Middle Staring us down |
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| Climbing perfect Ice in the Chevy |
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| Entry to the Ford Couloir |
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| Base of Ford |
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| Putting in the booter |
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| Will! |
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| The steepness of the Face surrounding by Winter's Magic |
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| Will reaching the Summit in Winter |
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| Psyched! |
