In the late winter of 2019 I signed up for Instagram. The worst or best thing I have done to share my experiences with those I love? Not sure. It quite possibly is the greatest waste of time or the best way to catalogue some of my adventures in life. Not sure. When we are inspired we should document our lives for future generations and even those interested enough to read a sampling today. The past year has fled as quickly as a stream of clouds departs on a spring day, leaving only the memory of their existence behind. I guess that's the impetus to get me putting some thoughts down in this blog.
Simply put, this past year has been one of the greatest I have had in a long time. Despite being ailed by a terrible sinus infection in the spring, followed by a deviated septum repair surgery, then anaphylactic shock in the fall, followed by a knee injury and then a meniscectomy surgery in my right knee this past week, the year has been incredible. I am eternally grateful for the memories that were created like pages in a small book that have come together to create a catalogue of moments filled with joy. I am grateful most of all to those that joined me a long the path to create the snapshots of time.
I am only going to hit the high-points as, my procrastination has gotten the better of me, making the writing of these moments time consuming, in a world where time if the greatest of fleeting commodities. But even then, the import of capturing time in a word rises in value with each fleeting day, week or year.
Red Rocks, NV - March 2019 and April 2019- Crimson Chrysalis, Unimpeachable Groping, Johnny Vegas, Saddle Up, Armatron and One Arm Bandit
"Laced with chocolate and milk, standing as sentinels to the valley below, the rocks, timeless and emotionless tell the stories of ages long past and a future filled with adventure, struggle and happiness."- Red Rocks, March 2019 Chad Ambrose
A couple of great trips were taken this past spring, climbing in the Red Rocks Preserve, just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada. The first was taken by Will and I. We slept in his van at night and climbed during the days. We climbed on Crimson Chrysalis, then Unimpeachable Groping 5.10d 7 pitches, where we had a wild rappel off, touching the ground at 10:45 PM! We had only brought one headlamp up the route (shame on us) and then I dropped mine at the top long after the sun fell behind the far distant hills. We had been held up by two parties ahead of us! We got off. The next day we climbed Johnny Vegas on Solar slab. Then headed home.
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| Red Rocks at Dawn |
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| Rapping off Crimson |
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| Will up on Unimpeachable |
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| The next morning on JV |
The next trip was for Spring Break. We stayed in a nearby hotel and climbed during the days. Carson, my no 18 year old has trained a lot and is an excellent climber. He and I creatively linked up in 5 hours first Saddle Up which was excellent and Armatron which was even more excellent. Carson climbed well for sure. We did in all 10 pitches together.
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| Carson topping out on 3 pitch of Saddle Up |
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| Carson hoofing it now to Armatron- Brownstone Wall |
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| Pitch two of Armatron- Not an ugly day or piece of stone |
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| Carson leading the brownstone wall |
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| Fun exposed climbing |
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| The Man Carson nearly on top of his route |
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| Yes! |
The next day, little brother Owen who is also a great climber, adventurer and young photographer at 15, and I climbed the four pitch "one-arm bandit" on Rose Tower. It was awesome to climb with him on this fantastic route. He did great!
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| Owen on swirling chocolate and cream! |
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| Two big heads on top of the lovely Rose Tower |
Mount Rainier, WA- June 14, 2019
"Awakening in a furnace of fire which fights to combat the icy
chill of the slopes, this hulking mass of stone and ice, beckons the ambitious
traveler toward its treasures held deeply within its grasp. To travel among the
glaciers, along the rock and see nothing but the end of a long snowy road
collide with the darkness of a clear blue sky, is to experience complete joy." – Chad Ambrose, Mount Rainier June 14, 2019
Will Hanson and I arrived at Paradise on June 13, 2019 in the afternoon, beneath, arguably the most beautiful volcano in North America. I had been on this mountain in 1999 with terrible winter conditions. It was good to pull back in to the parking lot, albeit I am now much older, but I like to think more seasoned. We sorted gear, ate in the cafe and awaited night to fall. And fall it did, with high winds and darkness as we laid awake in Will's old Sprinter Van.
The morning came at 2 AM and we were up, packs loaded, skis in hand as we groped our way through the misty fog that had cast a cloak of darkness over Mount Rainier. We hit the restroom and then at 330 AM we were off, donning our skis shortly thereafter. After getting disoriented a bit due to the fog, we finally found our way and started the long, sweeping ascent of the Muir Snowfields. Dawn was striving to break as suddenly the veil of mist was broken and the upper part of Rainier was opened before our eyes.
The Nisqually snowfield stood, looming ahead, shining with a deep, cold blue. We cruised up the fields and reached Camp Muir in about 2.5 hours from when we began. We roped up and then crossed over the Ingraham then the Cleaver and on up the glacier, passing crevasses, snow bridges and lovely seracs. At 5.5 hours we reached point success, and then on up to the summit of Rainier. We pondered on the greatest of the moment we were experiencing, tears filled our eyes over the greatness of God and his creations. The weather could not have been more beautiful. Then off we went, amidst clear blue skies and a windless moment, skiing all the way down the 9,000 foot plus descent. It was an incredible experience in every way. Arriving back at the car in under 8 hours seemed robbery as we thought of the poor folks carrying their large packs up to Camp Muir to stay, as the post holed in the early afternoon corn snow. I guess they get to spend more time up there, while we, robbing our selves of more time on the mountain, were in a hurry to get back in the van and drive for 15 hours to get home.
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| Will Hanson |
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| The unveiling |
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| Morning light |
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| The dawn on Mount Rainier |
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| Yep I'm pretty happy |
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| Crevasse |
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| The top |
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| From the top, Baker in the Background |
Lone Peak- Vertical Overhangs- July 6, 2019
"Entry to the cathedral is a holy experience, captivating the soul and the eyes, pulling me closer towards the perfectly sculpted granite walls, that cast a spell of grandeur and sanctity. The setting transcends ambition"- Chad Ambrose, Lone Peak, Utah
For years I have traveled into one of my favorite alpine sanctuaries around. It started when I was 16 years old when my three buddies and I tried to climb Lone Peak from the East. We got stymied at the great "notch." Unable to figure out a way around we descended down into bells and slept for the night. Vowing I would be back and that I would climb those west facing walls I saw out of those 16 year old eyes.
I've returned many times into the "cirque." Climbed several of the routes, which are some of my favorite, exposed lines we have here at home. One line that I never before had done, was the Triple Overhangs route. Ashamedly I had waited all these years. Nor had I climbed the Vertical Smile route. Both routes (5.10) lie on the main Summit Wall. So, following a record-setting snow year in the Wasatch, with the mountain still full of snow, on July 6, 2019, Will and I left our car at the Jacob's at 630 AM and headed for the Cirque. Well below it the snow began, and crampons were needed just for walking. Upon entry, the walls began to speak, filling our souls with wonder.
No one was around, just us and the cathedral. The route looked pretty intimidating but awesome. Routes always look different on the day you are about to climb them. We left the packs in the cirque, saddled up the harnesses, rack (doubles to #2 and single #3, and a 70 M rope), pulled out the ice axes and front pointed up to the wall. The snow was rock hard, and steep, perfect for crampons. The sun started to peer around the wall, and the once cold granite warmed like a stone in a microwave. Will led the first pitch, I then led off up the crux pitch of the Vertical Smile, up the wild dihedral. Then I led the Triple Overhangs section as pitch 3. The overhangs were spectacular but the enjoyment was punctuated by the perfect hand crack to the end of the pitch. Both absolutely incredible pitches, each with distinct cruxes. The thin Dihedral on Vertical Smile is the harder of the two in my opinion. Will then led us to the summit.
The top was filled with snow as we then down climbed once more with crampons to the collin's highway rappel. The trip was topped off by a leap from the rock at the bottom of the rappel over a season bergshrund and sliding on our butts down to the packs.
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| Heaven |
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| Will excited and nervous as he kicks us off |
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| Topping out on pitch 2 much steeper than it looks |
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| Exquisite rock |
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| Me heading up the Overhangs |
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| Will hauling the heavy pack up top of Triple O's. Check out the lovely flower with the rope |
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| Will nearing the top |
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| Funny 70's like engagement photo. We are not engaged though, but we are on top. |
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| Coming down Collin's Staircase with Question Mark wall to the right |
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| The greatness stretched beyond us |
Mount Teewinot, Grand Tetons, WY- July11, 2019
"Pushing toward heaven, the great towers have pierced the earth, heaved upwards as if God himself were manifesting to us all his own hand escaping the center of the world. Capped with white and robed in stone, the mighty Teton Range takes my breathe away even today, even after so many encounters and witnesses of its glory. It is here where I find myself, my soul is reunited with God and it is here where I discover who I really am." Chad Ambrose, Grand Tetons July 2019
Having climbed in the Teton range for nearly 30 years, I never tire from just sitting below them, staring into their faces and thinking of their beauty. I also never tire climbing on them. Owen, my youngest boy at 15 was ready to embark on his first Teton climb and so we started with the incredible Teewinot. This peak takes a swift and steep ascent from the east and delivers you to the smallest of all summit platforms in the Tetons. What makes it even greater, when you reach the summit, its the first time you see what lies behind to the west. As you summit, suddenly glacier gulch falls below you, thousands of feet and the Grand Teton's north face and Mt. Owen's east face simultaneously stare at you directly into your face. It's an incredible spot on the earth.
At 5:00 AM, Will, Owen and I started our hike upwards towards Teewinot. Still full of snow, the east face posed a fun challenging snow climb for Owen. We made good time. Using crampons, ice axes and a thin cord to keep Owen tied to me, we moved up through the technical snowfields, passing moats and climbing on the lovely rock. Just 500 vertical feet below the summit, nearing the final snowfield, Owen was spent. He was discouraged by the strain but so badly wanted to proceed. We rested for a few moments, fueled him up and after 10 minutes he was charged once again and powered his way to the summit of Teewinot. It's a 5,600 foot gain. As he touched the summit at 9 AM, his breath was taken away as the cold wind brought the icy temps of Glacial Gulch directly into his face. He loved it! We were so excited for him. Fortunately the descent was swift and without incident. Welcome to the Tetons Owen.
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| At the Apex |
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| Ready to roll up the snowfields |
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| Amazing light |
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| Moving up the fields |
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| The rock! |
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| My boy and I on the summit! |
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| Will & Owen |
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| Exposure explained and Mount Moran seen- Owen looking down into Cascade Canyon reminiscing of when he was young looking up here |
Dihedral Minor, Haystack Peak, Wind River Range, WY- August 5, 2019
Like winter's white blanket laid over a far-stretched landscape, the granite encapsulates the land even as icy encrusts a contoured cake. With backbones like a massive mammal fallen to the earth with sunsets that rise over the vertebrae of rock, the mighty wind river range finds itself isolated and still unimpacted by man. Could there be a more lovely landscape?"- Chad Ambrose, Wind River Range, August 2019
Annually I take my sons with my brother and his son into the wilderness backpacking. We have our favorite locations. They are being more discovered by people, probably because of people like me that share experiences about them online. I should stop. This year we backpacked in the winds. Carson, my 18 year old son and I, during one of the days, took our climbing gear and climbed on Haystack Peak, the incredible Dihedral Minor route. 8 pitches of incredibly isolated climbing and a sweeping just off vertical face. It was incredible. We were out for a week and had an incredible time. This route was one of my favorites all year. Just he and I, alone on an incredible mountain from the bottom to the top.
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| The boys with Haystack looming in the background |
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| Mighty Owen |
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| Me and my sons |
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| My brother Jeff |
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| Owen |
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| After a massive storm |
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| The bugs were worse this year |
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| Spectacular day |
A few shots of the Dihedral Minor Route
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| Reaching the base |
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| Pulling through 5.9 blank crux of pitch 2 |
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| One of my favorite shots this year. Carson topping out pitch 4 |
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| Haystack and Dihedral Minor |
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| Carson on top of pitch 4 |
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| Sick rock indeed |
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| Carson barrelling up to the top of the 200+ feet of the Dihedral |
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| Carson leading us up the second to last pitch! Cruxy roof and about 1,300 feet below his butt |
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| Pretty psyched |
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| Top! |
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| Glory |
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| Exit |
Grand Teton, Beyer 1 East Face- August 24, 2019
"Beyond words, beyond belief, is this for real? Those are the most amazing mountains I have ever seen. Hey Mr. River Guide, do people really climb that? Yes they do, my brother is on it right now"- A brief conversation I had while I was 13 years old while cruising down the snake river at the foot of the Grand Teton.
Each of the Tetons are incredible, with spectacular faces of stone, snow and the signature of God written all over them. Since 1990, I have climbed several different routes on each of them and with the classic lines becoming overcrowded my focus has been shifted to the lesser known routes. My goal this season was to climb routes I never before had done. My eyes for some time have been drawn to a steep, buttress that makes up the east, southeast face of the Grand Teton housing popular characters like the Otter Body on its wall. With a direct, somewhat dangerous approach, the face smiles on the climber seeking adventure and solitude, boasting a solid Teton rating and pretty spectacular route. Will and I climbed this route together in August 2019. We left our car at 3 AM at Lupine and were on top around 11 AM. We then scurried over to the Enclosure Peak to sit in the holy ring of fire. We were back to the car around 4 PM. What was really neat was to run into Jim Beyer at the AAC Ranch. He did the FA of this bold route in the 70's! It was neat to talk it over with him. A wild man of the mountains, with wild eyes.
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| unique perspective of Teepee Pilar |
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| Ropin up- time to roll |
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| Will on the East Face |
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| Splitter hand crack- steeper than it looks |
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| Will on a sea of gneiss |
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| Another morning light shot of Teepee |
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| Another crux pitch |
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| I forgot, this pic was from the bottom of the route |
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| A look at our friendly neighbors |
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| incredible morning |
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| Not bad rock |
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| Top of Underhill Ridge and Grand summit above me |
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| Summit |
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| Guess where? |
Lone Peak Lowe Route- August 31, 2019
It was great to get back into Lone Peak but this time it was to help get three close friends up the Lowe Route. Carson my 18 year old, Will H and Lars. Marcie and Owen joined us on the lovely hike up to the Cirque. It was bone dry at the base of the route. We all had a tremendous time. Carson and I were a team and Will and Lars were a team behind us. The three loved the route. How can you not! Marcie and Owen hiked out before we descended off the route. We did it in a 10 hour day.
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| Climbing gang |
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| Marcie and her boys |
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| Carson up high on the route |
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| Lars loving it |
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| Another shot of Carson |
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| Will near the top |
Besides these great days, there were many others that fill the recesses of my memory. They were three excellent seasons, shared with those I love and care about. I am always excited to meet new people and to spend time in the mountains with them. Here are some other pictures of some of the great routes we climbed on Spring, Summer and Fall of 2019.
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| Annie Smoot high on the Fin |
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| Brian Smoot Spring Fin Travels |
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| Carson high up on three or four of "Living on the Edge" route |
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| Owen dwelling in the canyon |
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| Brian Smoot leading high on the Thumb - Spring Fever (he did the First Acent of it many moons ago) |
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| Top of Black Peeler Autumn Day! |
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| The mighty Devil's Castle North Face |
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| Brian high up on "Shadow of the Blade" on the Castle |
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| Brian Smoot top of Pitch 2 of our First Ascent of "Out of the Blue" (5 pitches) on Surprise Buttress- August |
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| The Thumb |
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| Pitch 3 of Arm and Hammer |
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| Will on A&H |
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| The Holy Zion Curtain |
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| Alex Ambrose high up on the Thumb |
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| Selfies with Alex and I on the Thumb |
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| Carson nearing the top of the "Guardian" |
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| Summer slabbing in the summer evening warmth |
